1988
Fresh from a job waiting tables in Melbourne, Australian Robert Cromb set sail for what was to be a French adventure that would turn the tide of his future. Together, with his partner, Danielle Vagner they settled in to a cheap, but seemingly stylish hotel.
It wasn’t until they’d spent a few days in their comfortable ‘hotel’ that a French acquaintance remarked that they were actually staying in a brothel! However odd this meeting may have seemed, it turned out to be a bizarre blessing.
The acquaintance was Philippe de Hesdin, founder and then Director of Kookai, Paris. Instant friendship was formed, and Philippe insisted that the couple stay with him. “We stayed at his house for a couple of weeks,” explains Rob. “We were really like kindred spirits.”
It wasn’t until Rob was leaving Paris that the question of profession arose, and Philippe mentioned Kookai. Rob’s entrepreneurial mind clicked into overdrive. Rob left France with a friendship forged and the glimmering of a business idea.
On home soil, Rob spoke to friends in the apparel business and approached Philippe for the rights to distribute Kookai in Australia. Rob was initially met with a voice of trepidation. Taxes and the difference in seasons were of a high concern, but Rob persisted and Philippe ended up consenting.
1990
Kookai’s Australian life started as wholesale under the care of Rob, Danielle and her brother Jason. Timing couldn’t have been worse. Not long after they launched, the industry was hit by the ‘1991 fashion recession’. Prime retail areas became closing down wasteland, retailers all around the country fell over, and debt skyrocketed.
Kookai was down to the line, but they weren’t going to go out quietly. As a ‘last fling’ Rob decided to buy a store on Chapel Street, Melbourne. “I went home and said to Dan, ‘I think we should open a store’ ” he recalls. “All she said was ‘you must be kidding’.”
1992
In an old rundown jewellery store Kookai set up shop. They renovated and crammed it with unclaimed orders. On the opening day in July 1992, Danielle served and styled the customers while Rob commandeered the stockroom. In that single day of trade they exceeded the week’s expectations.
1993
After a very successful first season of retailing from the first boutique, Rob decided it was time to take the label directly to the chic city shopper and opened the second boutique in Collins St, Melbourne.
1994
The Kookai name was now on the lips of young fashionista’s around Melbourne. The brand had brought a new French influenced range to the Melbourne fashion set. Offering quirky and somewhat unexpected highlight pieces back with comfortable and affordable basics, Kookai was making a mark on the retail sector.
With this growing popularity Rob again took a risk and ventured into the juggernaut of what was to become the Southern Hemispheres largest Shopping Centre – Chadstone.
Kookai launched the now infamous “blue bag”. Early adopters soon started carry the bag around as an added addition to their wardrobe. The blue bag soon became a must have.
1995
Always looking for new and somewhat unusual boutique locations, Rob decided to open his next store in the then bohemian Greville St, Prahran Melbourne.
1996
The decision was made to start manufacturing out of a small factory in James St., Windsor, Melbourne. Rob started to expand his unique designs from basic tee shirts to more fashion forward highlight pieces. This new addition, with the existing French imports added an Australian twist to the Kookai range and was very well received by the already loyal customers.
1997
With the Melbourne market well under its wing, the Kookai label hits the shores of Sydney with its first boutique opening in Chatswood Shopping Centre.
The new addition of Australian made and designed garments to the Kookai label was so well received that the Directors made the decision to again expand the manufacturing side of the business and open a larger factory in Commercial Rd, South Yarra.
1998
2 years on and the manufacturing arm of the Kookai business had grown substantially, again forcing the Directors to expand into a larger factory at Thomas Place, Prahran. From here the warehousing and distribution arm of the business was set up.
In the same year Kookai saw the retail stores double in quantity, with boutiques opening in Oxford St (NSW), Karrinyup (WA), King St (WA), and Sydney Central.
With this growth came more employees, and thus the decision to open a head office space above the factory in Thomas Place was made.
1999
Our first off-shore manufacturing factory was opened in Fiji. Many of our core basic garments started to be produced out of Lyndhurst Limited, Suva.
2000
Investing over $1 million into a knitting mill in Richmond, Kookai started manufacturing their own knit wear under the name Beba Enterprises. The mill allowed Kookai to continually produce innovative, high quality, home grown knitted garments.
More products and manufacturing facilities allowed Kookai to expand again with boutiques opening in Garden City (WA), Pacific Fair (QLD) and Rundle Mall (SA).
As the manufacturing arm of the business had grown substantially and the French inspired, yet Australian designed garments became ever popular the Directors made the decision to phase out the French imported products and rely solely on our own designs.
2001
Head Office was re-located to 50 -52 Claremont St, South Yarra Melbourne. This space allowed for a larger team and design house to operate all in one.
2003
Sadly Kookai said farewell to our Oxford St store and we re-located to an existing site in Victoria St, Darlinghurst.
2004
Kookai moved full manufacturing operation to Fiji, however, keeping Beba knitting mill in Richmond operating. The stores now received product on a weekly basis with new styles hitting the boutiques every week from our Fiji factory.
Kookai formed an affiliation with Australian up and coming designer Tina Kalivas. Launched in August 2005, Kookai by Tina Kalivas, offered customers the quirky and directional collection entitled Moon Goddess. Customers were treated to an affordable designer range at the convenience of our 14 boutiques.
In 2004 Kookai also grew with new stores opening in TGV (NSW), Highpoint (Vic), Bondi Junction (NSW) and Wintergarden (QLD).
2005
In winter 2005 Kookai launched their first locally driven campaign with a series of winter woolly looks compiled into a look book that was distributed throughout our boutiques.
Summer 2005 saw the next instalment in the Kookai Campaign with our first full catalogue. The Noosa shoot was a 1 day expedition and was pulled together on a wish and prayer. The campaign proved to be a real winner for Kookai as the public soon realised the label had grown up from the once small offering of tube skirts and cotton basics.
Boutiques in Melbourne Central, Macquarie, Penrith and Parramatta were opened, taking the store count to 20.
2006
After the success of Kookai’s first home grown catalogue, the next campaign was rolled out for winter – New Britannia. Shot in Labassa House, Melbourne, the campaign took a slightly darker, moodier direction than previously seen within our stores. Following the catalogue launch, an internal style and fashion night was held at Labassa House. All staff enjoyed a full 20 minute parade followed by style tips from Creative Director, Danielle Vagner and a winter warming soirée with fellow employees.
New York Grace was launched for summer 2006. Our Kookai girls were now living the high life and the travelling duo represented in the campaign lived it up in the Big Apple. Inspired by James Bond beauties, and classic styles form the late 50’s Kookai had once again turned up the heat.
This year also saw Kookai take the plunge and re-launch a new basic line under the label Cotton de Pima. The staple cotton rib was replaced with a high quality option that was also created in 2 sizes (unlike the cotton rib, which was a ‘one size fits many’).
The growth of the business continued with stores opening in Warringah (NSW), Marion (SA), Chermside (QLD), and Noosa (QLD). Kookai also decided to take the brand to the international market and opened the first Kookai store in Sylvia Park, Auckland, New Zealand.
2007
Le Magicien Moderne put a theatrical spin on the season. The campaign was shot in and around the streets of Melbourne. Drawing on historical buildings and streets of the city the campaign was innovative, creative and still very Parisian.
This year Canberra was introduced to a Kookai Boutique and sadly our Darlinghurst store closed its doors.
Today
The label retains its French name, but is 100 percent designed in Melbourne. The original three continue to guide the company’s strategy and direction, with Rob as Managing Director leading a large team of young designers in the South Yarra headquarters. Among the perfect fit tees and basics, the team continually design new collections at a snapshot turnover. “We try and refresh the design constantly.” Rob explains. “Most of the time we’ll only do a couple of hundred of each piece, ensuring exclusivity.”
The Kookai family has expanded considerably, with over 400 sales staff nationwide, but the original principles remain. “When the girls at store level tell us something at Head Office, we listen,” Rob says. He and his staff know their product and above all, know their customer. “A Kookai customer has a lot of attitude, she knows what she wants and doesn’t necessarily want to be told what to do,” says Rob. “It’s always been about a young, very strong-willed but pretty and savvy girl.”