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The label retains its French name, but is 100 percent designed in Melbourne. The original three continue to guide the company's strategy and direction, with Rob as Managing Director leading a large team of young designers in the South Yarra headquarters. Among the perfect fit tees and basics, the team continually design new collections at a snapshot turnover. "We try and refresh the design constantly." Rob explains. "Most of the time we'll only do a couple of hundred of each piece, ensuring exclusivity."
The KOOKAЇ family has expanded considerably, with over 400 sales staff nationwide, but the original principles remain. "When the girls at store level tell us something at Head Office, we listen," Rob says. He and his staff know their product and above all, know their customer. "A KOOKAЇ customer has a lot of attitude, she knows what she wants and doesn't necessarily want to be told what to do," says Rob. "It's always been about a young, very strong-willed but pretty and savvy girl."
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Fresh from a job waiting tables in Melbourne, Australian Robert Cromb set sail for what was to be a French adventure that would turn the tide of his future. Together, with his partner, Danielle Vagner they settled in to a cheap, but seemingly stylish hotel.
It wasn't until they'd spent a few days in their comfortable 'hotel' that a French acquaintance remarked that they were actually staying in a brothel! However odd this meeting may have seemed, it turned out to be a bizarre blessing.
The acquaintance was Philippe de Hesdin, founder and then Director of KOOKAЇ, Paris. Instant friendship was formed, and Philippe insisted that the couple stay with him. "We stayed at his house for a couple of weeks," explains Rob. "We were really like kindred spirits."
It wasn't until Rob was leaving Paris that the question of profession arose, and Philippe mentioned KOOKAЇ. Rob's entrepreneurial mind clicked into overdrive. Rob left France with a friendship forged and the glimmering of a business idea.
On home soil, Rob spoke to friends in the apparel business and approached Philippe for the rights to distribute KOOKAЇ in Australia. Rob was initially met with a voice of trepidation. Taxes and the difference in seasons were of a high concern, but Rob persisted and Philippe ended up consenting.
1990
KOOKAЇ's Australian life started as wholesale under the care of Rob, Danielle and her brother Jason. Timing couldn't have been worse. Not long after they launched, the industry was hit by the '1991 fashion recession'. Prime retail areas became closing down wasteland, retailers all around the country fell over, and debt skyrocketed.
KOOKAЇ was down to the line, but they weren't going to go out quietly. As a 'last fling' Rob decided to buy a store on Chapel Street, Melbourne. "I went home and said to Dan, 'I think we should open a store' " he recalls. "All she said was 'you must be kidding'."
1992
In an old rundown jewellery store KOOKAЇ set up shop. They renovated and crammed it with unclaimed orders. On the opening day in July 1992, Danielle served and styled the customers while Rob commandeered the stockroom. In that single day of trade they exceeded the week's expectations.
1993
After a very successful first season of retailing from the first boutique, Rob decided it was time to take the label directly to the chic city shopper and opened the second boutique in Collins St, Melbourne. |
